FROM the best bara brith to Welsh whisky and the finest artisan craftspeople, our insiders have it covered. The epic landscapes of North Wales are alive with action and a rich, distinctive culture...
Claire Acworth and Rob Hill run Wernog Wood (.wernogwood.co.uk), teaching craft courses for adults in an idyllic woodland setting within the Clwydian range near Ruthin.
Students can choose from a variety of heritage crafts courses such as timber-frame building, blacksmithing, jewellery making, dry stone walling, stone carving, traditional stained glass and cleft oak gate making.
Claire Acworth and Rob Hill run Wernog Wood (wernogwood.co.uk), teaching craft courses for adults in an idyllic woodland setting within the Clwydian range near Ruthin
Students can choose from a variety of heritage craft courses, such as timberframe building, blacksmithing, jewellery making, dry stone walling, stone carving, traditional stained glass and cleft oak gate making.
‘What we love most about our work in Wernog Wood is the opportunity to bring together diverse groups of people from all walks of life,’ says Claire.
‘We first fell in love with the Clwydian Hills when we explored the area a decade ago. Now, we’re fortunate to call this place home, embraced by a warm and welcoming community.
‘We feel a true sense of belonging in this special corner of North Wales.’
When they do venture out, favourite spots include the Raven Inn, Llanarmon-yn-Ial, which is an hour-and-a-half’s walk from Wernog Wood, up over Offa’s Dyke, perfect to build up an appetite.
‘This was the first pub we visited and still our favourite,’ says Claire. ‘It’s a lovely community-run pub full of character with great local brews and good honest pub grub.We also like The White Horse Restaurant in Hendrerwydd, Small Plates in Ruthin, the Druid Inn in Llanferres, The Drovers Arms in Rhewl, The Dinorben Arms in Bodfar and the Griffin Inn in Llanbedr DC.’
They are also regulars at Ruthin Craft Centre, and Oriel Glasfryn Gallery, both of which exhibit the work of Wernog Wood tutors.
‘There’s a great selection of handmade Welsh gifts in Siop Elfair, or beautifully handmade crafts in Ruthin Craft Centre some of which are made by our tutors.’
Joe Swiffen runs Mynydd Sleddog Adventures (mynyddsleddogadventures.com), Wales’s only outdoor activity provider, specialising in husky rides and sled dog experiences and adventures.
‘From the rugged mountains of Eryri to our home on the vast open moorland of Hiraethog, all the way to the coastline from Flintshire to Conwy to the Llyn Peninsula, the whole area is just magical as well as mysterious, full of culture and local legends,’ says Joe.
‘Llindir Inn, Henllan, is a favourite for live music and open mic nights locally. The traditional thatched pub with thick stone walls is set in the heart of Henllan village, Denbighshire, a thriving Welsh community. The food is great and the atmosphere in the pub is brilliant.
‘The best Sunday roast has to be at The Old Stag at Llangernyw. This is a fantastic little pub full of trinkets and wonderment, the food is locally sourced and produced and tastes amazing. For dessert,I recommend the honeycomb cheesecake.
‘The town of Ruthin is a great place for culture and art with some beautiful buildings and an old town square. There’s also a regular makers’ market and craft centre, which sells local makers’ sculptures, knitted blankets and paintings.’
When Joe has friends over, the day starts with the dogs: ‘I take them for a sleddog ride in our forest; Bwlch Hafod Einion, near Llyn Brenig and Alwen on the Conwy and Denbighshire border. Then we take lunch at Llyn Brenig Visitor Centre café, followed by a boat ride out on the reservoir. Then to Moel Famau Donkeys, just outside Ruthin, for a walk with their gorgeous donkeys and views across the Clwydian Range. Later we might head over to Conwy for a visit to the castle and town, before heading to Llandudno to Chish’n’Fips, our favourite chippy in the area. We’d sit on the promenade and eat while being watched by the greedy seagulls.’
North Wales doesn’t get more northern than Cemaes, the pretty village on the northern coast of Anglesey. There, John Owen sells bara brith, lemon drizzle cake, fruit scones and shortbread biscuits from Cemaes Baykes at Menter y Pentre Cemaes Village Venture, Anglesey’s first community shop.
‘The village venture shop provides tables for local crafters to offer their products, and sells second-hand books, jigsaws, and so much more,’ he says.
He also hosts a quiz at The Stag on Thursday nights. ‘It’s Wales’s most northerly pub – a quaint, wood-beamed inn, overlooking the bay with a real fire and hearty fare,’ he says.
The High Street’s other independent traders all work closely together to create a strong community feel.
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‘Y Gloch, or The Bell, is a small independent café selling homemade cakes, fresh coffee and light lunches,’ says John. ‘Caffi Banc is a sit in or takeaway café and deli with fresh baps, sausage rolls, jacket potatoes, paninis and breakfasts.
‘Then we have Y Wygr Fish and Chips, a traditional chippy, with hot food to take away or sit in the small tabled area.
‘We even have Preened and Pampered Dog Grooming, which gives each dog a personalised session that can range from a simple wash and de-shed to a full hand strip.’
Rhiannon Broadbent works across the country as a hypnobirthing teacher, with private and group courses and online at birthbeyoutifullywithrhi.com. Her family is originally from St Asaph, but she now spends a lot of her time in Anglesey.
‘I have so many happy memories crab fishing inBeaumaris,walking aroundLlanrug and paddling in rivers near Beddgelert,’ she says. ‘In more recent years, my parents bought a caravan near Benllech in Anglesey so we are very lucky to holiday there multiple times a year. We love Anglesey – every time we go, we discover new things to do.
‘Our favourite restaurants are The Boathouse in Red Wharf Bay (their clam chowder is excellent) and Popty Pizza in Llangefni, which has delicious stone-baked pizzas and craft beers, and a cool vibe while being very family-friendly. The Harbourfront Bistro in Holyhead has amazing views and is great for a pit-stop while out and about. Happy Valley Pavillion Café in Beaumaris is a little off the main tourist strip and does amazing, homemade bara brith and a hot drink for a bargain deal.
‘We love shopping for our kids at Unique Kids in Menai Bridge. Their handmade fleeces are made in North Wales and come in so many different, jazzy patterns. Three generations of our family now have them to match.
‘And don’t miss the hidden gem – there’s a nice, short walk from near the Britannia Bridge that takes in the stone lions that were a big design feature of the original bridge before the road deck was added. You can then walk past St Mary’s Parish Church and down to the Strait, where there is a statue of Lord Nelson.It’s a really quiet stretch of the Strait with a pebble beach (at low tide). It’s such a peaceful walk taking in lots of local history.’
Donna Jones is the operations and promotional manager at Barnutopia Glamping and Venue at Tanycoed Farm, right on the border between England and Wales (barnutopia.com). It has 10 glamping yurts and cabins, furnished with real beds made up ready to sleep in, plus electrical sockets, lights, heaters and WiFi.
‘My favourite part of North Wales is the natural beauty of the landscape, the rolling hills, the charming seaside towns, and the beautiful castles,’ she says.
South Stacks is always a favourite location for me. Descending all those steps to the lighthouse to have to come back up them again after, and Conwy has some lovely places to eat and the stunning Conwy Castle to explore before eating.
‘Broughton would be our first choice if we were going shopping, there is a free car park with plenty of spaces and a covered roof to protect you in all weathers, and a great variety of shops. It also has a couple of chain restaurants and a cinema, making it a great asset to North Wales.
‘Farm Adventure is a hidden gem.It hosts hilarious farm-inspired activities for adults, perfect for corporate events and groups of family and friends. You can herd sheep, race John Deere tractors and wang wellies. It offers a tasty home-reared barbecue after you have spent the morning on the farm and there is stunning accommodation for 16 guests so you can make a weekend of it.
‘Rhyl has to be one of the areas that has altered the most over the years. A lot of money is being spent to return it to what it used to be.’
Wrexham (or Wrecsam if we’re using the Welsh spelling) was a finalist for UK City of Culture in 2025 and it’s no surprise. The city has always been a hub of creativity, but in recent years, added investment has really helped its artist communities to get the recognition they deserve.
Robert Guy is an award-winning conductor from the town. He is the co-founder, with his composer brother Jonathan, of NEW Sinfonia, the resident orchestra at the North Wales International Music Festival in St Asaph, which also has close links with Llangollen International Musical Eisteddfod.
He’s working on a new opera commemorating the 90th anniversary of the Gresford Colliery disaster, which will be performed this month at several venues, including St Asaph Cathedral and St Giles’s Church, in Wrexham.
‘I keep hearing how great Wrexham is becoming, but for me, this has been building for a good few years,’ says Robert. ‘It’s just now the rest of the world is starting to find out about it.
‘You have places like Tŷ Pawb, a great museum art and space. There are cafés, there are market stalls with local traders, and there are exhibitions that people can just check out. It’s free to go into. I’d recommend it to anyone looking for a great day out.
Tŷ Pawb (Everybody’s House) was selected as one of the five finalists for Art Fund Museum of the Year 2022, the world’s largest museum prize. Just opposite Tŷ Pawb is XPLORE!, a science centre with interactive games that look at the fun side of science and learning,’ he adds.
‘Then there’s Erddig, owned by the National Trust, that’s not far away. There’s a lot you can walk around there. If people are interested in history, you can go to Gresford and see the wheel and the memorial, plus the Wrexham Miners Project, which is by the football ground, and that’s a free exhibition.
‘While I’m out and about, I grab coffee or lunch at Bank Coffee or from one of the traders at Tŷ Pawb. There’s so much happening here.’
Rachel Beech is the founder of Fetching, the school-collection platform that shows teachers who is picking up each child (wearefetching.com). She travels across North Wales for work and leisure.
‘I had a great Sunday roast at The Anglesey Arms in Menai Bridge recently – it serves unlimited Yorkshire puddings and gravy, so I will definitely be going back there,’ she says.
‘Domu in Bangor is just lovely – run by a husband and wife team who serve vegan and vegetarian food with a Ukrainian twist. Bangor High Street has been pretty sad for the past few years so I am hoping this place is the start of a revival.
‘The Black Cat café at Parc Glynllifon is one of my favourites for homemade cake. It is a bit out of the way but there are some great gardens and the team that runs it is lovely as well.
‘If you’re a National Trust member, there is a great selection in North Wales, including Plas Newydd, Penrhyn Castle and Garden, and Bodnant Garden.
‘There is a sauna on the beach near Rhosneigr in Anglesey. I’m also going to shout out the Pant Du vineyard in the Nantlle Valley. Not many people would expect to find a vineyard in North Wales. I often take people to Aber Falls. You need to get there early as it gets busy and the road to the car park is narrow butitis impressive. It’s a 5km round trip to walk to the waterfall and back. Afterwards, we go to the distillery of the same name where you can take a tour and pick up some gin or whisky, named after the falls.’.
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